The Hour Glass Independent Watch Makers Pop Store (Pictures and a couple of videos)

Got to view the exhibition at Paragon Shopping Centre set up by the Hour Glass .

Was great to view some awesome pieces that you would rarely get to see from some great independent watch makers

From L-R:  Kari Voutilainen, Roger Smith, Vianney Halter, Laurent Ferrier & Philippe Dufour

Pictures of my new M53

Got it on Monday.  Its a great watch for its value and its already starting to patina.  I plan to let it go naturally.

Wait is nearly over!

After a year of delays my Bronze watch from Lum Tec is ready!  Have not received it yet but I am happy the end is in sight!

New arrival in my collection: Seiko Monster Blue Limited Edition

The Blue!

 I  managed to acquire this piece from a friend who I am very thankful to for allowing me to purchase it.  It is a Seiko released along with 3 others to celebrate 100 years of watch making.  Its official model number is SRP455K.

I have been bitten by the Seiko Bug

I have heard great things about Seiko coming from seasoned and knowledgeable watch collectors.

I am hoping to get my first one a limited edition Monster.  A few friends of mine have gotten this piece and I am hoping I can get my hands on one at retail price with discount.  Seems to be a few dealers trying to sell it with an inflated price

I don't get it at all about Panerai and power reserve indicators

I love Panerai and its watches but I always have one problem with some of their releases.  Their watches are nice but sometimes lack in execution of certain features.

Take their latest release for instance

Panerai has just released their newest movement the P5000.  It is a manual winding movement with 8 days power reserve.  The 510 and 511 are the models which feature this new movement.  The 510 is in stainless steel and the 511 is in rose gold.  It has been known for sometime but finally released to the general public.

The thing I don't understand is why a Power Reserve indicator was not included.  A power reserve indicator is useful especially for a 8 days movement because it gives the wearer an indication of when the watch needs to be wound again.

Panerai have gone down this road previous with the limited edition 339.  It can be argued no PR indicator was included because it had a cool composite case and it would ruin the aesthetic beauty of the watch overall.

Time will tell if a P5001 movement will be released just like P3001 movement which has a PR indicator on the back.

Update on things

Have been busy with Uni assignments and exams which are finally done for the semester.  Still waiting on my Bronzo.  The waiting game continues with that.

I didn't post on my blog that I dropped my Panerai 8 feet down the stairs and screwed the movement.  Luckily that was the end of the problems and it got sent off for repair.  Its fixed and I need to collect it.  It has been missed and I am looking forward to getting it back on my wrist.

Rolex Teaser for BaselWorld 2013

Well Rolex has released a teaser on their website regarding their new release for BaselWorld.  It shows a Triplock crown and a stainless steel bracelet (Assumed).

Speculation around is that it could be a 50th Anniversary of the Daytona with a ceramic bezel, or it could be a two colour GMT Master II

Well shall have to wait and see today.

Book Review: A Grand Complication

I have just finished reading A Grand Complication by Stacy Perman.

It documents the story of two of America's greatest watch collectors in the 20th Century,  Henry Graves Jr and & James Ward Packard.

Henry Graves Jr was a banker and James Ward Packard was an entrepreneur who was an innovator with lightbulbs and founder of Packard Automobiles.

They both shared a love of complicated mechanical timepieces featuring tourbillons, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars and split seconds chronographs.

It was a friendly rivalry with both trying to obtain the most complicated timepieces from the prestigious houses of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

In my opinion it is a very well written book, documenting the histories of both men, watchmaking and the constant love affair of watch collecting.

 My thanks to Elizabeth Doerr, who first posted about this book and brought it to my attention.

Basel World 2013: What I would like to see/my predictions

Well its that time of year again for the newest releases from the rest of the watch making world after SIHH.

Basel World is held this year from April 25 to May 2, 2013.

I am looking forward to seeing what Tag Heuer brings out since this year is the 50th Anniversary of the Carrera.  If they make a 3 registered chrono based on the old school versions, I will be a happy chappy!

The famous Rolex Cosmograph is also celebrating its 50th.  Rumours are floating around that the size will be increased from 40mm to 44mm. Hopefully it is the Stainless Steel that receives the upgrades.  Going by past history of Rolex and its order of metals, it is a possibility.   I do like a watch at 44mm but that only applies to Panerai for me.  I would like the size to remain at 40mm, but would like to see a ceramic bezel and a dials that resemble the old Daytona's such as the Paul Newman and pre Daytona designation chronographs.

Its always an exciting time and will be looking forward to see all the new releases.

The waiting game

Been a while since I have posted anything as I am back at Uni.

As the title of this posts indicates I am writing about the waiting game.  For watch enthusiasts there are many fine independent watchmakers around, it is possible to have a timepiece made to your specifications to a limit.  Usually the movement of the watch will be the same, but the perspective owner can have a say on the choice of material for the case and details of the dial.

I have seen recently friends who I communicate with on various forums, take delivery of some exceptional timepieces from independent watch makers and this is something I would love to undertake in the future.  You develop a strong bond with the watchmaker and you get to play an exciting waiting game

As for my own waiting game, I was hit by the Panerai PAM 382 known in Paneristi circles as the "Bronzo" when it first came out, as the case is made from marine grade bronze.  Other companies such as Gerald Genta have used this material before for cases, but Panerai took interest level to a whole new level.

Since obtaining a Special Edition of Panerai is a tough ask and does cost a fair amount of money, I was happy to see an American company bringing out a limited run of Bronze watches in a similar shape to Panerai.  Lum Tec is a small company but has many followers due to their superb value and excellent customer service.

I placed a deposit and the waiting game began.  Everything in the building of the watches was going well until the first hitch of the movements of the watches been delayed.  That issue was resolved and the next hurdle was a big one to clear.  The supplier of the bronze could not supply the right blend.  This led to an extended delay.

Well just this week the proper material has been delivered and the finish line is in sight.

Its been a long wait but it has been worth while.

Just waiting for the email to pay for the rest of the watch when its ready.

Richard Mille SIHH 2013: RM 59-01 Yohan Blake Tourbillon

Well another model has been released for the Jamaican sprinter Yohan Blake.  He known by his nickname  "The Beast" and his hand actions he makes (see photo below).  This has been incorporated into the design.

"The Beast"

The watch is a limited edition of 50 pieces.  I am not really a big fan due to the colour of the case but I do like the dial and the bridges.

Movement dimensions: 30.50 mm x 28.70 mm
- Thickness: 5.20 mm
- Tourbillon diameter: 10.90 mm
- Balance wheel diameter: 9.12 mm
- Number of jewels: 19
- Balance wheel: Glucydur, with 2 arms and 4 setting screws, moment of inertia 11.50 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53°
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Balance spring: ELINVAR by Nivarox®
- Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR KE 160 B28
- Barrel shaft in nickel-free Chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S), with the following characteristics:
stainless – non-magnetic – tempered

De Bethune DB28 Skybridge

An infinite expanse of the heavenly firmament stretches across its dreamlike face. Ancestral skills and the latest scientific breakthroughs meet and mingle under the impetus of David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet. They merge to make this timepiece a perfect summary of highly aesthetic ambition and peerless technical precision. Skybridge embodies the entire repertoire of the Manufacture De Bethune.
While classically inspired in terms of its round shape, its 12 o’clock crown and its hunter-type back borrowed from pocket watches, the ultra-light mirror-polished titanium case of the DB28 with its distinctive floating lugs nonetheless proclaim the collection’s modern and indeed futuristic nature.
A nocturnal window on infinity, Skybridge features a whole host of astonishing shimmering effects, in turn brilliant or intensely radiant with the blue that has been a House signature for the past eleven years.

Richard Mille SIHH 2013: RM27-01 Rafael Nadal Tourbillon

A new release from Richard Mille.  The original RM27 was a revelation in terms of technical design and practicality.  It was worn by Rafael Nadal while playing tennis matches.  It was so light it could even float on water.

Limited edition of 50 timepieces

1000! Views

Thank you to everyone for viewing my Blog.  Reached 1000 views!

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication

Limited to a mere six pieces: The most complicated and most exclusive A. Lange & Söhne timepiece ascends to the pinnacle of precision watchmaking.

The Grand Complication features a host of fascinating functions and yet again manifests the ability of the Saxon master watchmakers to conquer ever new peaks with their undisputed ingenuity. Beneath the lucidly configured enamel dial, the horological opus with the calibre designation L1902 incorporates scores of lavishly finished parts, bringing to life the most elaborate complications which the art of haute horlogerie has to offer: Chiming mechanism with grand and small strike, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph with minute counter and flying seconds as well as a perpetual calendar with moon-phase display.

The development of the Grand Complication is an adventurous expedition into the cosmos of complexity. The result is a watch that is extraordinary in every respect, reflecting the brilliance of the Lange dynasty's forebears and the virtuosity of today's watchmakers.

De Bethune DB16 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

De Bethune has gained a reputation for their innovation in striving to create a more accurate watch using different designs and materials.

David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet deserve tremendous praise for creating such beautiful and complicated timepieces with technical precision.

I have always loved their take on displaying the moonphase using a spherical ball instead of a disc.  The intense blue of the hands on their watches is captivating.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar melds the technical fascination of a rattrapante chronograph with the enduring precision of a perpetual calendar that does not need to be corrected until the year 2100, and then by only one day.

The meanwhile eighth chronograph calibre developed by A. Lange & Söhne is yet another manifestation of the brand’s exceptional competence in this apotheosis of precision watchmaking. With a rattrapante chronograph, a perpetual calendar, a moon-phase display, and a power-reserve indicator, it unites more horological complications than the well-organised dial suggests at first sight.

Jaeger LeCoultre Videos

Jaeger LeCoultre is celebrating its 180th Anniversary this year.  To mark the occasion so far 3 watches have been released.

Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee

Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee

Master Ultra Thin Jubilee 

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Video

A. Lange & Söhne has posted a video showing an explanation of the functions of the new 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar.

It is very good viewing.

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Panerai SIHH 2013: PAM 512 Luminor 1940 42mm

For a person with a small wrist, a 44mm PAM is the most my wrist can take without looking completely silly.

The 512 at 42mm in the eyes of purists it should be its historic 47mm.  It utilises the 1940's style Panerai case.  I like it for its smaller size and will definitely consider adding it to my collection.

 

MOVEMENT

Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.999/1 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 12 lignes, 3 mm thick, 19 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 60 hours. 144 components.

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, small seconds.

CASE

Diameter 42 mm, AISI 316L polished steel. Screw-down winding crown personalised OP.

BEZEL

Polished steel.

BACK

See-through sapphire crystal.

DIAL

Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Seconds at 9 o’clock.

CRYSTAL

Sapphire, made of corundum, 1.6 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.

WATER-RESISTANCE

10 bar (~ 100 metres).

STRAP

PANERAI personalised alligator strap and trapezoidal polished steel buckle.

* The trademark Velcro® and Coramid® are not property of Officine Panerai.

Panerai SIHH 2013: LUMINOR 1950 REGATTA 3 DAYS CHRONO FLYBACK TITANIO PAM 526

This is an interesting new release from Panerai.  The PAM 526 utilises a new movement from Panerai with a Regatta function built onto it called the P.9100/R.

It is designed for the use in sailing races.

The orange push-button at four o’clock moves the central orange chronograph minute hand back one minute at a time, until it is at the correct position in relation to the length of the countdown.  On starting the chronograph,by pushing the chronograph stop/start button at ten o’clock, the relative hands begin to move, indicating first the minutes and seconds remaining until the start, and then, when the countdown has finished, the time elapsed since the start of the race. The push-button at eight o’clock ends the time measurement, returning allthe chronograph hands to zero.  Alternatively, if it is operated while the hands are still moving, it activates the return-to-zero (flyback) function, thus enabling a new time interval to be measured immediately without operating the stop and reset buttons.

 

MOVEMENT

Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9100/R calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾ lignes, 9.55 mm thick, 37 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 328 components.

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph, regatta countdown, knots scale for calculation of boat speed, seconds reset.

CASE

Diameter 47 mm, brushed titanium. Engraved brushed titanium buttons for the chronograph functions at 10 o’clock and 8 o’clock. Brushed button and orange surface for the regatta function at 4 o’clock.

BEZEL

Polished titanium.

BACK

See-through sapphire crystal.

DEVICE PROTECTING THE CROWN

(protected as trademark) Brushed titanium.

DIAL

Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Chronograph hour counter at 3 o' clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds and minutes hands.

CRYSTAL

Sapphire, made of corundum, 1.6 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.

WATER-RESISTANCE

10 bar (~ 100 metres).

STRAP

PANERAI personalised rubber strap and trapezoidal brushed titanium buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable strap, a tool for changing the strap and a steel screwdriver.

* The trademark Velcro® and Coramid® are not property of Officine Panerai

SIHH 2013: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Video

Roger Dubuis just released this video of their new Excalibur Quatuor.  It is a very interesting watch and the video for it is Bad Ass!

Panerai Special Edition 2013: PAM 446 Ceramica

For the pocket watch lovers out there is now the  Pocket Watch Tourbillon  GMT Ceramica.  It features a Tourbillon, 2nd Timezone function with 24hr indicator and Power Reserve indicator on the back.

Exclusive Special Edition created in only 50 units.

MOVEMENT

Skeleton hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.2005/S calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 16¼ lignes, 10.05 mm thick, 31 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 6 days, three barrels. 277 components.

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, small seconds, second time zone, 24h indicator, power reserve indicator on the back, tourbillon.

CASE

Diameter 59 mm, black ceramic.

BEZEL

Black ceramic.

BACK

See-through sapphire crystal.

CRYSTAL

Sapphire, made of corundum, 2 mm thick. Double anti-reflective coating.

WATER-RESISTANCE

3 bar (~ 30 metres).

STRAP

PANERAI personalized watch chain in black ceramic.

* The trademark Velcro® and Coramid® are not property of Officine Panerai.

IWC Video on new Ingenieur Collection 2013

I saw this on IWC's YouTube channel.  The video showcases the new releases of the Ingenieur range for 2013.

Paneri Special Edition 2013: PAM 508 CERAMICA

The next model is the PAM 508 CERAMICA.  It is a Submersible with a completely Ceramic case.  It does have a Titanium caseback though.  It does look quite good and the vintage look lume works well in contrast with the black.

Unique edition of 1000 units

MOVEMENT

Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾  lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 28 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 197 components.

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, calculation of immersion time.

CASE

Diameter 47 mm, black ceramic.

BEZEL

Black ceramic anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel with graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion and ratchet click at minute intervals.

BACK

Screw, titanium with special hard black coating.

DEVICE PROTECTING THE CROWN

(protected as a trademark) Black ceramic.

DIAL

Black with applied luminous hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.

CRYSTAL

Sapphire, made of corundum, 4 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.

WATER-RESISTANCE

30 bar (~ 300 metres).

STRAP

PANERAI personalised leather strap and trapezoidal titanium buckle with special hard black coating. Supplied with a

Panerai Special Edition 2013: PAM 507

The next special edition is the PAM 507.  This is another Bronze model after first one the 382.  This new model utilises the P.9002 movement with the power reserve showing on the dial.  Personally I prefer the 382 since the dial is a lot clearer.

Unique edition of 500 units

MOVEMENT

Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9002 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾  lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 29 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 237 components.

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, seconds reset, power reserve indicator, calculation of immersion time.

CASE

Diameter 47 mm, brushed bronze.

BEZEL

Brushed bronze with polished edges, anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel with graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion and ratchet click at minute intervals.

BACK

Brushed titanium with see-through sapphire crystal.

DEVICE PROTECTING THE CROWN

(protected as a trademark) Brushed bronze.

DIAL

Green with applied luminous hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 5 o’ clock.

CRYSTAL

Sapphire, made of corundum, 2.9 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.

WATER-RESISTANCE

30 bar (~ 300 metres).

STRAP

PANERAI personalised leather strap and trapezoidal brushed titanium buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable

Panerai Special Edition 2013: PAM 364

Panerai have releases their special editions for 2013.

First up is the PAM 364.  This is a re edition of the PAM 285 "Subzilla".  The 364 now has the in house P9000 movement.

Unique edition of 500 units

MOVEMENT

Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾  lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 28 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 197 components.

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, calculation of immersion time.

CASE

Diameter 47 mm, brushed titanium. Polished titanium helium valve.

BEZEL

Brushed titanium with polished edges, anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel with graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion and ratchet click at minute intervals.

BACK

Screw, brushed titanium.

DEVICE PROTECTING THE CROWN

(protected as a trademark) Brushed titanium.

DIAL

Black with applied luminous hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.

CRYSTAL

Sapphire, made of corundum, 5.9 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.

WATER-RESISTANCE

250 bar (~ 2500 metres).

STRAP

PANERAI personalised rubber strap and trapezoidal brushed titanium buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable

A Lange SIHH 2013 Video

Well SIHH has officially started.

Saw this on YouTube from A. Lange & Söhne so I will post it. It shows some of their new releases.

I really like the look of the 1815 Split Seconds Perpetual Calendar

The Lumen in more detail.

The Power of the Light

I took this shot last night.  It made think about technology and how it has progressed.  My Panerai is sitting atop of my Wireless Modem.

Who would have thought back in the 90's we would be able to access the internet on our computers without any wires attached.

As for the Panerai, its method of illumination has also evolved over the years.  At first the method used was a mixture of radium and paint which allowed the dial to glow in low lit condition.  Only problem was Radium is highly radioactive.  Case in point is the famous "Radium Girls".

 

After this Tritium was used by many watch companies as it was less radioactive but still provided adequate lumination.    The standard now used is Super Luminova.  It is photoluminescent pigments that are charged up by sun light and release the charge in low lit conditions.

Audemars Piguet Tapisserie Pattern dial

Audemars Piguet is one of the premier watchmakers around today.

One of their most famous models is the Royal Oak.  Designed by the late Gérald Genta, it is an iconic piece with its octagonal bezel and shape.

Another great feature of the watch is the Tapisserie Pattern dial.  It is done by an old process called engine turning.

This video from Audemars Piguet shows how it is done.

It provides the watch with a great depth and the dial is a thing of beauty.

Videos from Panerai

Panerai is among a few brands who have undertaken a complete overhaul of their website to make it more streamlined with use of flash menu's and new design.

They have posted new videos on their YouTube channel to give you an insight into how their watches are made.

They make for interesting viewing.

SIHH 2013

There is one day left to SIHH for 2013 and I am excited!

Brands from the Richemont group plus a few independents show off their new releases for the year.

Some brands give a sneak peak by issuing a press release revealing a new watch to be shown.  This gives watch lovers a taste of what other models the brands may be releasing.

Personally I am looking forward to seeing the new releases from Panerai, Richard Mille, Parmigiani, IWC and Jaeger Le Coultre.

SIHH runs from 21st to the 25h of January